Archive for August, 2007

The week in summary

Friday, August 31st, 2007
  • Restored BridgesToBoulder/Borderland Edition. Yay!

  • Called the PCMO to ask for more Benadryl.
  • Met with a local professor to discuss a possible project on HIV/AIDs prevention. I emailed her a short form that I needed her to fill out for an upcoming conference. In response she scolded me and reminded me that she was busy. I think there was a communication error somewhere…
  • Setup a WAMP server on my work computer and installed Drupal, Wordpress, and Joomla to play around with.
  • Worked on a website for one of the other PCVs in exchange for letting me visit him at his “pristine seaside location” down in the Crimea.
  • Started teaching myself Python.
  • Realized that I am a still much better at doing geeky things than diplomacy.
  • Spent 5+ hours tutoring Dasha on how to be a successful telemarketer in English. So if you receive a call from someone with a Ukrainian accent trying to give you a free subscription to information and analysis on the CIS Steel Market… please don’t hang up on her!
  • Spent too many hours showing The Professor how to send an email.
  • Rescued The Tutor from the scary alley near her work. It was only 5pm and still light out though…
  • Was stood up by The Tutor while waiting at The Tank for nearly an hour. I was supposed to meet the other teachers at the academy today. I even wore shoes!
  • Made the usual sarcastic and not very helpful comment on the Ukraine32 YahooGroup.

Ah. The life of a community development volunteer in Ukraine.

Dear God… that was odd

Wednesday, August 29th, 2007

Today I took time out of my “busy” work schedule to attend a local business function with my co-worker, The Professor (see previous post). I asked him what the event was about, he answered me in his typical way-too-fast Russian and all that I understood was something about a holiday. I agreed to go with him anyway, thinking that maybe I would be giving a speech about how to fight corruption within the local economy or perhaps how to teach paragliding to blind orphans from Siberia. When we arrived at the local administration building I realized that this was a pretty major event, whatever it was. There were hundreds of people all dressed in the normal Ukrainian business attired. At least today I was partially dressed for the occasion, wearing a collared shirt and khakis. But, I still wear my chacos everyday because this is Peace Corps after all.

As we sat in a huge auditorium waiting for the event to begin the speakers blared instrumental versions of 80s love songs. Then, with introduction music that I’m sure came from Monty Python and the Holy Grail, the main event started with the introduction of the two emcees. They looked sort of like a Ukrainian version of Pat Sajak and Vanna White from Wheel of Fortune. I began trying to think of an exit strategy but I figured at least I would get a good opportunity to practice my Russian listening skills. But, unfortunately, I was wrong again. The speakers spoke mainly in Ukrainian. I don’t know why. I haven’t heard much Ukrainian in the East, but for some reason they decided to host this event in Ukrainian. I did hear something more about a holiday, but I’m not quite sure what holiday they were referring to. After a few minutes of non-stop rambling in Ukrainian, they started announcing names. As the first member of the audience called approached the stage, two women dressed in slinky evening gowns entered the stage carrying a bouquet of flowers and a vacuum cleaner. Yes, the door price for this quite formal event was a vacuum cleaner. After the initial shock of, ‘holy cow they are presenting vacuum cleaners as awards to business leaders’ wore off, the next thought become, ‘I really need a vacuum cleaner, I wonder how I can get my name announced’. After a round of names were announced and the prized vacuum cleaners claimed, the hosts announced something in Ukrainian and left the stage. The lights dimmed and suddenly strobe lights and generated fog filled the room. A troupe of women wearing white wedding dresses appeared on stage and began dancing to Enya. Up to this point the whole spectacle was quite amusing to me. However, the following two hours proved to be a something between a high school awards ceremony, a city council meeting, and a preliminary round of American Idol. Finally, when I couldn’t take it anymore, I got a phone call from my Russian tutor and I used that as an excuse to leave. Sadly they never did announce my name, nor did I get to give a speech about fighting corruption.

The characters of my life

Wednesday, August 29th, 2007

So, since lately I’ve been feeling that my life here has to be some sort of Candid Camera show; I thought I’d introduce the different people and places in my life here.

First of all we have The Company (Компания), which is Peace Corps Ukraine. It’s not the same as The Company, but it works. Before making any travel plans, housing changes, or taking any medication, I must consult with The Company. The Company basically controls my life while I’m in Ukraine.

Next we have The Wizard (Колдун). Just like The Wizard of Oz in the popular book and movie, I have never actually seen the director of this organization. He is only a voice on the telephone to me, but he seems to be highly venerated by his subjects here in DP.

As for the inhabitants of Oz (the organization which The Company assigned me to), we have The Accountant (Бухгалтер), The Counterpart (Коллега), and The Professor (Профессор). The Accountant is my favorite person in the office. She is in charge of the finances of Oz, I assume. She is always very kind to me even though I’m pretty sure she thinks I’m some sort of moron because we can’t communicate with each other except for a few broken conversations in Russian. But, she played a critical role in finding me housing so I’m thankful to her that I’m not sleeping on the streets of DP. The Counterpart has been MIA for most of the time I’ve been here. I think he has left and found work elsewhere, but I’m not sure. The Professor is the new guy here in the office. As far as I understand, he is a retired Russian physicist. He often asks me to proofread English translations of highly technical documents about space particles. He speaks uber fast and I rarely understand what he is saying.

Next, we have The Tutor (Репетитор). She was introduced to me by an RPCV who never actually returned to the states. She is my Russian tutor as well as the teacher who I’ll be working with at the Metallurgical Academy. She has been a great help to me so far and is quite patient in teaching me how to just not insert Russian words into English grammar but how to start forming Russian thoughts. She found it very funny when I recently told a waiter at the cafe that “we simple want to get drunk” instead of simply “we only want drinks” (meaning Pepsi and Sprite). She also is now my fashion consultant apparently, as yesterday she told me I need to wear shoes when I teach and not sandals.

And, finally, I am just The Passenger (Пассажир) on this strange and amusing journey in a foreign land. Much like a rubber duck, I am carried along by a current which I do not see or understand these days. =P

And we’re back!

Monday, August 27th, 2007

As some of you noticed bridgestoboulder.com recently was MIA. After emailing support and receiving no response for several days, I went to the website of my hosting company, Dzones. Their website had a message saying that they would be down temporarily for a ’server re-location’. I did some research and found out that Dzones had recently been bought by a company called The ByteShack. Then ByteShack was sold to another group and the owner just ran off with the servers and everyone’s money. Long story short, five years of bridgestoboulder.com is gone. It was like someone came and burned down my online house. At first I was bummed, I had spent many hours working on the sites hosted there. Then my experience in Ukraine kicked in, I just shrugged and went about finding a new and better host. I was reminded of the importance of a reliable backup plan. On the bright side, it turned out to be a good way to clean up old files.

So, now we’re back up, running on Dreamhost (Thanks to Charles for the advice!). I enjoyed spending time working on restoring the site. It seems that, even though I ran off to Ukraine for a bit, I still have the urge to write PHP code.

I lost some of my posts but was able to restore many of them, as well as add some new updates I had written while the site was down. Enjoy! I’m going to go and back everything up now. =)

Ukrainian Independence Day

Friday, August 24th, 2007

Today is Ukrainian Independence Day.

Yesterday I was walking down the street and saw some guy finish the last gulp of his beer and just toss the bottle into the bushes. It’s still a shock to see this, even after over a year of cumulative living in the FSU. It’s the little things, like that example, that I have to force myself to just ‘get over’. When I go to a store to buy a bottle of water I now expect the woman at the shop (they are always women) to treat me with rudeness and disdain, as if I’m intruding upon her day by simply being a customer. I’m becoming accustomed to being shoved and elbowed by fellow passengers on a crowded bus each day as I travel about the city. When I get bumped into on public transport, I instinctively put my hand on my pocket to avoid being pick-pocketed because we are warned on a monthly basis by the Peace Corps Safety and Security Officer of the prevalence of pick-pocketing of foreigners here.

There are also admirable aspects to life in Ukraine. Mostly it’s the people. People like my host family back in Chernigov, where we had pre-service training. I still keep in fairly regular email and SMS contact with them. This morning I received an email from them encouraging me to return for a visit soon. I miss the late night conversations over tea and chocolates that we had in broken Russian and English. It was a unique opportunity to really see into the soul of another culture.

Last night I watched a movie given to me by my host family. It’s called Сибирский цирюльник (in English: “The Barber of Siberia”). You can google it or check it out at Blockbuster for details of the movie, but I enjoyed seeing the romantic world of 19th century Russia portrayed in the movie. In my mind, Russia, and by extension Ukraine, is best experienced in winter, with numb toes and a light snow falling on dark street corners. The thing that struck me the most about this Russian-made movie is the ending. All Hollywood movies seem to wrap up nicely with a warm and happy ending. Сибирский цирюльник doesn’t end quite that way. I won’t spoil the ending, but it ends in a way that feels unfinished, like there is more to the story but you are left to contemplate that on your own. It goes along well with the national theme here, “Ukraine is not yet dead”.

Travel and a Visitor

Saturday, August 11th, 2007

Watching the groups of young people pass by on the ride home was relaxing. The techno music blaring on the radio added to the ambiance. I had just watched train pull away from the central train station after saying goodbye to Terah. I said out loud, “well the vacation is over,” before realizing that I was once again enveloped by a world with nobody to talk to.

It’s been awhile. This is actually the first time in almost three weeks that I’ve had time to write anything. It’s been a good three weeks, filled with travel and friends. As I sit here in my apartment I keep expecting to hear the footsteps of someone else in my apartment. It’s weird to only hear the hum of the refrigerator again. I turn up the volume on iTunes so the lyrics of U2 fill the silence. “…All that you can’t leave behind…” The loneliest time here is the day after saying goodbye.

Two and a half weeks ago Megan and I boarded a train at the very same train station. We arrived at the train station early, real early - 4am early. I had successfully called and ordered a taxi to take us from my apartment to the train station, completely in Russian and it all worked. It’s great when things work like that, they usually don’t here. We managed to survive the 23 hours in 3rd class and arrived in Ivano-Frankisvk at an equally God-awful time of the morning. We were greeted by our friend Jonathon. Over the next couple of days we had to the opportunity to realize just how different life is for the PCVs of the west. In addition to having a more western town with close access to mountains and nature, Jonathon has an amazing apartment. Hardwood floors, a modern bathroom with a working toilet, and even a washing machine. Not that I’m living in a hut in the African plains, but my Soviet style apartment reminds me where I am on a daily basis. I do get a good laugh each day when I wake up to the hideously wallpapered ceiling. Who wallpapers the ceiling? Ukrainians, apparently.

Sunset in ИВАНО-ФРАНКОВСКAfter a couple days of hanging out in Ivano, eating together and laughing a ton, we hopped on a bus down to the town of Chernitsi near the border with Romania. From there we were whisked into the rolling hills of the Capathians and “American Camp” where we were scheduled to work for the week. After spending a month or so in vast concrete of the industrial east, the rolling hills and green forests were a sight for sore eyes. I could finally breath deeply. I was in Ukrainian heaven! The camp food was… well, camp food, but I didn’t mind it. I spent the days playing sports with kids and counselors… basketball and soccer mainly. I felt healthy for the first time in over a month. We helped the Ukrainian counselors with the English lessons and allowed the kids to hear native English speakers in normal conversation.

ЧЕРНОВЦЫ UniversityAfter finishing our work at the camp we spent a day in Chernitsi and attended a presentation of US Embassy personnel at the local “Window on America” center. These centers are sponsored by US Embassy and located in most of the olblast centers in the country. There is one in DP but its working hours are few and far between. The presentation was about American culture and played up many of the common stereotypes of America. After the presentation there was a brief Q&A session where we had the opportunity to hear some quite entertaining questions by an odd fellow decked out in dark sunglasses. We were pretty certain he was drunk.

A couple days later I said goodbye to my friends and hopped on a train bound for Kiev. I was excited to meet a friend who had just finished up her Peace Corps service in Azerbaijan. It was strange to think that my friends from Azerbaijan group 3 were finally COSing (Close of Service) and heading home. Terah and two other members of our AZ3 group arrived at Boryspill Airport and we spent the day touring Kiev. Kiev was much prettier than I remembered. The main park is incredibly green and a really enjoyable place to walk. It was fun to hear the stories from Azerbaijan. It was also a good reminder of how nice Ukraine is when compared to Azerbaijan. I once read somewhere that once you leave a place you immediately begin to forgive it. I had forgotten what life in Azerbaijan was like during the two years since I left.

Rodina Mat (aka "Tin Tits")After a couple days in Kiev, Terah and I took a train to DP and she become my first overseas visitor. I now realize that DP is a much nicer place to visit if you have a friend to explore with. I gave her the official Mike tour of DP, showed off all of the casinos, and we had lunch at the Mexican restaurant near the river Dniper. I have to say that the Mexican food was probably the worst example of Mexican food I’ve ever experienced. But, now I know. We also took a day trip to a city further down river. The visit to this particular city had one benefit, I know it’s not worth visiting again. Now I have a whole new category of pollution and blight. I was surprised to be glad to return to DP. This place must be growing on me or something.

Looking back on her visit, I’m quite thankful to have had Terah as a guest. She is an incredibly positive and encouraging person, just what was needed in my life at this point. She forced me to go out and interact with the town, something I had previously been avoiding. I even discovered a few places where I can go when the negative thoughts hit. One of these places is a shopping center I had passed often but never ventured into. This shopping center has a nice food court with a tasty restaurant called Pazata Hata, which translates to something like “house of being full” or something close. This restaurant is a cafeteria style chain restaurant which has a variety of traditional Ukrainian dishes like borsht, vereniki, and okrowshka. Terah’s visit was also encouraging that it reminded me of the finish line, whenever that time may be. She has definitely earned that ticket home after two years in Azerbaijan. Now she is a RPCV (Returned Peace Corps Volunteer) and can look back at her time in Azerbaijan with pride knowing that she accomplished something unique and noble.

This is definitely not the experience I was expecting when I initially applied for Peace Corps. The usual advertisements and brochures show dramatic scenes of PCVS serving in exotic places like Africa, where they experience physical hardships such as no electricity or running water. Those hardships are not part of my daily experience here in Ukraine. Instead they are replaced by more subtle difficulties. Subtle things that creep up on you slowly and with stealth, like getting used to the cold concrete blandness and the general feeling of oppression that seventy plus years of communism leaves on a place. You don’t even realize it until you are removed from the landscape and find yourself immensely impressed with a few green hills or with a kind smile from a stranger.

Photos from the trip